Their Silver Wedding Journey — Volume 3 — A Closer Reading

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Howells, William Dean, 1837-1920 Project Gutenberg 2004 Not confirmed
Americans -- Europe -- Fiction; Transatlantic voyages -- Fiction Readers of public-domain and historical texts
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Words 71,195
Reading time 310 min
Text sections 6

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Howells chronicles the Marches' journey through Germany, focusing on their reactions to architecture, nationalism, and daily life. The narrative shifts between ironic observation and reflective commentary, with particular attention to the contrast between German imperial pride and the travelers' personal impressions.
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They were so early, indeed, that when they mounted from the great inner court, much too big for Ansbach, if not for the building, and rung the custodian's bell, a smiling maid who let them into an ante-room, where she kept on picking over vegetables for her dinner, said the custodian was busy, and could not be seen till ten o'clock. She seemed, in her nook of the pretentious pile, as innocently unconscious of its history as any hen-sparrow who had built her nest in some coign of its architecture; and her friendly, peaceful domesticity remained a wholesome human background to the tragedies and comedies of the past, and held them in a picturesque relief in which they were alike tolerable and even charming.

The history of Ansbach strikes its roots in the soil of fable, and above ground is a gnarled and twisted growth of good and bad from the time of the Great Charles to the time of the Great Frederick. Between these times she had her various rulers, ecclesiastical and secular, in various forms of vassalage to the empire; but for nearly four centuries her sovereignty was in the hands of the margraves, who reigned in a constantly increasing splendor till the last sold her outright to the King of Prussia in 1791, and went to live in England on the proceeds. She had taken her part in the miseries and glories of the wars that desolated Germany, but after the Reformation, when she turned from the ancient faith to which she owed her cloistered origin under St. Gumpertus, her people had peace except when their last prince sold them to fight the battles of others. It is in this last transaction that her history, almost in the moment when she ceased to have a history of her own, links to that of the modern world, and that it came home to the Marches in their national character; for two thousand of those poor Ansbach mercenaries were bought up by England and sent to put down a rebellion in her American colonies.

Humanly, they were more concerned for the Last Margrave, because of certain qualities which made him the Best Margrave, in spite of the defects of his qualities. He was the son of the Wild Margrave, equally known in the Ansbach annals, who may not have been the Worst Margrave, but who had certainly a bad trick of putting his subjects to death without trial, and in cases where there was special haste, with his own hand. He sent his son to the university at Utrecht because he believed that the republican influences in Holland would be wholesome for him, and then he sent him to travel in Italy; but when the boy came home looking frail and sick, the Wild Margrave charged his official travelling companion with neglect, and had the unhappy Hofrath Meyer hanged without process for this crime. One of the gentlemen of his realm, for a pasquinade on the Margrave, was brought to the scaffold; he had, at various times, twenty-two of his soldiers shot with arrows and bullets or hanged for desertion, besides many whose penalties his clemency commuted to the loss of an ear or a nose; a Hungarian who killed his hunting-dog, he had broken alive on the wheel. A soldier's wife was hanged for complicity in a case of desertion; a young soldier who eloped with the girl he loved was brought to Ansbach from a neighboring town, and hanged with her on the same gallows. A sentry at the door of one of the Margrave's castles amiably complied with the Margrave's request to let him take his gun for a moment, on the pretence of wishing to look at it. For this breach of discipline the prince covered him with abuse and gave him over to his hussars, who bound him to a horse's tail and dragged him through the streets; he died of his injuries. The kennel-master who had charge of the Margrave's dogs was accused of neglecting them: without further inquiry the Margrave rode to the man's house and shot him down on his own threshold. A shepherd who met the Margrave on a shying horse did not get his flock out of the way quickly enough; the Margrave demanded the pistols of a gentleman in his company, but he answered that they were not loaded, and the shepherd's life was saved. As they returned home the gentleman fired them off. "What does that mean?" cried the Margrave, furiously. "It means, gracious lord, that you will sleep sweeter tonight, for not having heard my pistols an hour sooner."

The Marches' train journey to Ansbach introduces a pattern of accidental discovery that defines this volume. A chance encounter with a railway architect leads them to a town where the classicistic facades offer relief from Nuremberg's Gothic surfeit. Howells renders their travel as a series of negotiated impressions: the hotel draped in Bavarian colors, the prince's exclusive dining room, and the compensatory supper at a native inn where pens scratch alongside crockery. The narrative voice moves between March's wry internal commentary and Mrs. March's more direct reactions, creating a layered perspective on German culture.

Architectural Contrasts and National Character

Howells uses architecture as a lens for cultural critique. In Nuremberg, March suffers from 'excessive mediaevalism,' a phrase that signals his fatigue with the Gothic revival promoted by 'new imperial patriotism.' The young architect explains that no other style is permitted in Nuremberg, linking aesthetic uniformity to political ideology. Ansbach's classicism, described as 'almost Mantuan,' offers sensory relief and prompts the Marches to reflect on Germany's fragmented past. The narrative contrasts the 'smooth surfaces' of classicistic facades with the 'bruised and fretted' sensibilities of the travelers, suggesting that built environments shape emotional response. This attention to architectural detail recurs in Berlin, where March dismisses the palace as 'tiresome beyond the tiresome wont of palaces,' and Mrs. March wryly notes that Prussian militarism only becomes aggressive 'when they got up on pedestals, in bronze or marble.'

The Ironies of Imperial Hospitality

The Marches' experiences with German service industry reveal a nation of contradictions. At Ansbach, they are excluded from their hotel's dining room by Prince Leopold's party, yet find compensation in a 'delightfully native' supper where locals write letters alongside their meals. In Berlin, a restaurant dinner 'almost redeemed' Unter den Linden from disgrace, with a waiter whose friendliness prompts March to reflect on how nations are judged by cabmen, waiters, and hotel clerks rather than statesmen. This observation is immediately undercut by a rude waiter in Potsdam and persistently cold weather. Howells complicates the travelogue by showing how random encounters—a gardener hosing soaked shrubbery—can reshape a traveler's entire view of climate. The narrative voice remains skeptical of grand claims, as when March dismisses Carlyle's notion of Prussian strength in silence, noting that 'she is taking it out in talk now, and tall talk.'

Pacing Through Digression and Reflection

The volume's rhythm alternates between brisk travelogue and meditative asides. Howells slows the narrative for extended reflections on national character, as when March muses on the judgment of countries by their service workers. These digressions are punctuated by sharp, comic observations: Mrs. March's search for 'odious militarism' yields only inoffensive soldiers, and the couple's attempt to claim a 'reasoned and definite motive' for visiting Ansbach is undercut by the admission that it was 'somewhat accidental.' The prose itself mirrors this pacing—long, periodic sentences give way to clipped dialogue. The weather descriptions function as a structural device, with shifts from 'Indian summer' to 'harsh November air' marking emotional transitions. Howells avoids dramatic incident, instead building meaning through accumulation of detail, as when the Marches sit before the imperial palace 'watching the life' pass, a quiet tableau that encapsulates their role as observers.

Readers attentive to voice will notice how Howells modulates between March's ironic detachment and Mrs. March's more earnest responses, creating a dialogue that interrogates every impression. The volume rewards those who savor its digressions and offhand judgments, where a single rude waiter can outweigh a week of polite soldiers. Approach these chapters as a study in how travelers construct meaning from fragments—a chance remark, a change in weather, the angle of a facade.

Some evenings I recall how Howells’s Marches, amid Germany’s stiff imperial grandeur, found their truest moments in quiet, unguarded byways. That same understated intimacy seems to breathe through the South Sea wanderings in Omoo: Adventures in the South Seas — Background and Themes, where observation softens into acceptance, and neither traveler demands the world be louder than it already is.

Henry Mitchell
3 weeks ago

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5 out of 5 (1 User reviews )

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  • ...
    Mary Houston - 1 month ago
    {'review_type': 'Negative', 'review_text': "While the premise is promising, this volume fails to capture the charm of its predecessors. The plot meanders without clear direction, and the couple's conversations often feel repetitive and self-indulgent. The author's usually sharp wit is muted, and the journey lacks the descriptive richness that made the earlier books so vivid. For those expecting progression in the overarching story, this installment feels like filler, offering little new insight or memorable moments."}

  • ...
    Kevin Roberts - 1 month ago
    {'review_type': 'Neutral', 'review_text': "The book offers a pleasant mix of travelogue and marital reflection, with some insightful moments about aging and relationships. However, the pacing can be uneven, and certain chapters felt overly detailed, slowing down the narrative. Still, it's a solid addition to the series, and readers who enjoy character-driven stories will find it engaging. Just come prepared for a more leisurely tempo compared to the earlier volumes."}

  • ...
    Kristy Martin - 2 weeks ago
    {'review_type': 'Positive', 'review_text': "This third volume of 'Their Silver Wedding Journey' is a delightful continuation of the series. The author's keen observations of human nature shine through as the couple navigates the complexities of European travel and rekindles their bond. The descriptive prose is vivid, and the character development is exceptional. I found myself fully immersed in their world, and the book left me with a warm, satisfied feeling. A must-read for fans of classic literature and romantic journeys."}


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